Get On Track
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This page is for drivers. The process is short: read the Tech Book, get the car sorted, buy a ticket, and pass tech. Everything below is the quick version — the Tech Book is the full one, and it is what your car is actually measured against.
The Short Version
What to buy, and roughly what to spend. This is guidance, not the rulebook — the Tech Book is what your car is measured against, and it wins wherever the two differ.
Both wheels have to break traction together. Weld the open diff you have, or run a two-way. Cost depends on whether you pull it yourself and who does the welding.
Entry to mid range. The cheap end will get you on track; the money buys damping you can actually tune. Budget properly here before anywhere else — you feel it more than anything else on this list.
An entry-level racing bucket starts around $220; the range covers most of what a grassroots car needs. Used is fine too. It has to hold you in place and take the right belts. A stock seatbelt with a bucket seat will work.
It has to lock the rears while you are sideways. A dual-caliper setup is ideal but not required — on some cars the factory handbrake is enough, which is why the low end of that range is zero. Ask us about yours.
Non-negotiable, and the one place not to bargain-hunt blind. Budget Snell SA-rated lids start near $150; a well-known brand runs $340 and up. Check the Tech Book for the accepted ratings before you buy, so you do not buy twice.
A 2.5lb extinguisher plus a quick-release mount. It has to be secured and reachable from the driver’s seat — loose in the footwell does not pass.